How to recognize a quality costume? The Moret & Co look in Cannes

By far, many costumes can be deceiving. The color pleases the eye, the silhouette seems correct and the photo is successful. But when you look at the construction, the finishing touches and especially when you put the vest on, the differences become more obvious.

At Moret & Co in Cannes, we welcome both men who wear a professional suit every day and future brides who are discovering custom-made tailoring. Their habits are different, but one remark often comes up during the first fitting: «It’s amazing, the jacket fits perfectly, yet I don’t feel constricted.»

To recognize a quality costume, you must take the time to observe it and try it on. Here’s what we look for in a store and what you can check for yourself.

When I examine a jacket, I first look at its inner construction. I look at its assembly, I touch the back and I observe how it rolls. Then come the assembly of the collar, the fluidity of the fabric and the finishing touches.

We often hear about a thermo-collated jacket, semi-lined or fully lined. These terms describe different ways of constructing the fronts of the jacket and giving them their shape.

In a thermo-bonded assembly, a reinforcement material is attached to the fabric by gluing. The semi-lined assembly incorporates a fabric sewn into the upper part of the jacket, particularly at the chest area. In a fully lined assembly, this fabric extends over the entire length of the front panels. Depending on the construction, a semi-lined assembly may also use thermo-adhesive in certain areas: the terms therefore deserve to be explained precisely.

At Moret & Co., the semi-assembled garment is our basic assembly. We do not offer fully thermo-bonded assembly vests. Our custom-made jacket and trousers start at €700.

You don’t need to know how to recognize each construction by touch. However, you can ask how the jacket is assembled and why this choice suits your project. This is part of the explanations that a professional should be able to give you.

The buttonholes and the details: take a closer look

After construction, I look at the buttonholes. Are they neat? Are the stitches regular? Are there any threads that are too long or ends that are poorly attached?

Even a buttonhole made by machine must be neatly finished. It is not uncommon to see, even on very expensive ready-to-wear garments, details that deserve more care. price The displayed image does not, therefore, require you to look.

The functional buttonholes, which can actually be opened, are an interesting detail. However, they are not in themselves a sign of quality. The collar, the stitching, the lining, and the way the whole thing is assembled must also be considered.

A beautiful suit is judged by several consistent elements. Spectacular finish does not compensate for an uncomfortable or ill-fitting jacket.

«Wool is too warm.» This is probably the most common idea we hear.

We think of the thick winter sweater, sometimes thick and pilling. However, wool suit fabrics can be very lightweight. There is a big difference between a summer knit and a flannel or tweed that we choose for the cold season.

For a costume worn in Cannes or on the Côte d’Azur, we take into account the season, the conditions in which you will wear it, and your habits. Do you mainly work indoors? Do you have a lot of travel? Are you preparing for an outdoor wedding?

We prioritize natural materials and we compare the fabrics for you. Touch counts, as does weight, weave and drape. The right fabric is the one that suits your use.

Super 180’s or Super 220’s: should we look for the highest number?

The «Super S» number corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. It does not represent an overall rating for the suit.

Some very fine fabrics offer exceptional touch and can be particularly expensive. They may also require more care when worn. Therefore, for a professional suit that is worn regularly, systematically seeking the highest number is not necessarily the most appropriate choice.

We prefer to ask you how you will live in your costume. An occasional ceremonial outfit and a costume worn several days a week do not meet the same needs.

A very fitted jacket is not automatically well-cut. A more loose-fitting outfit can be very elegant. In both cases, everything depends on its proportions and its balance on the person.

Some men have long legs and a short bust. Others have the opposite proportions. The length of the jacket, the position of the trousers’ waist or the width of the sleeves can help visually balance the silhouette.

Our goal is for the eye to see a harmonious outfit, without being stuck on a sleeve that is too long, a jacket that is too short, or a pair of trousers that seem disconnected from the overall look.

Scale can be a bias. But it has to be built: there is a difference between a cut generous and a garment simply too big.

The length of the sleeves: a detail that changes the outcome

Many men spontaneously prefer a sleeve of the jacket that covers the wrist extensively. We generally aim to leave about 1 to 2 cm of shirt showing, adjusting this point to the person and the outfit.

This small detail adds a more refined finish. It also dialogues with the shirt collar, which remains slightly visible above the jacket collar at the back.

Even on a ready-to-wear suit, a well-adjusted sleeve length can significantly improve the balance of the outfit.

The professional can observe a tension, a sleeve that comes off or a sleeve that falls poorly. But he or she must also listen to you: it is you who will wear the outfit.

During the fitting, walk, sit down, and move your arms. A jacket can follow your silhouette without making you feel like you’re trapped inside it.

This is what often surprises our customers when they try on our test coats in Cannes. Some are very familiar with the major fashion houses and wear beautiful pieces from them for years. years. Their surprise has less to do with seeing themselves in a suit than with the freedom they feel in the clothing.

«A second skin»: this expression comes up frequently. It says something that the photo doesn't allow to be shown.

Professional costume or wedding costume: the quality is different

A client who wears their suit to work will quickly judge its comfort over an entire day. They sit down, move around, meet clients, and regularly returns their suit. Their expectations concern both the appearance and the use of the garment.

We sometimes receive messages after these first days: a colleague noticed the outfit, a customer asked where the suit came from. These feedback are very important to us. A portion of our new customers discover Moret & Co through a recommendation, after seeing a garment worn by a colleague or acquaintance.

For a future groom who rarely wears a suit, the first fitting often triggers another emotion. He discovers his silhouette in a garment he has chosen and that we have prepared with him. When his parents or close friends accompany him, their reaction is also part of the moment.

In both cases, we are looking for a garment that suits the person and that they enjoy wearing.

Recognizing a quality costume requires looking at several things together: its construction, its fabric, its finishes, its proportions, and its comfort. A brand, a price, or a number on a label only tell part of the story.

At Moret & Co in Cannes, our Custom-made costumes: jacket and trousers start at €700, With a semi-assembled base assembly. Our Custom-made shirts start at €100 and ours Custom-made vests at 250 €.

Are you looking for a professional suit, a wedding outfit, or a first-of-its-kind custom suit in the Alpes-Maritimes (06)? Bring your questions and some ideas. We will take the time to compare the fabrics, explain the construction details, and see what works best for you.

Make an appointment at Moret & Co in Cannes to prepare your custom-made outfit.